A Quick Guide to Types of Sewing Patterns
- goldenrosesewing
- Sep 6
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 20
Sewing your own garments is a rewarding and creative process, but it all starts with understanding sewing patterns. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to expand your skills, this guide will help you navigate the different types of patterns, how to read them, and how to choose the right one for your project.
What is a Sewing Pattern?
A sewing pattern is a set of templates and instructions used to cut and assemble fabric into a finished garment or accessory. Patterns can be commercial (from big brands like Simplicity, Vogue, McCall’s) or independent (from smaller, often designer-led companies). They come in printed tissue form or as downloadable PDFs. Patterns can be:
Commercial – from established brands like Simplicity, Vogue, McCall’s.
Independent – from smaller, often designer‑led companies.
Formats – printed tissue in an envelope, or downloadable PDFs you print at home.
Choosing the Right Pattern
When selecting a pattern, consider:
Skill level – many patterns are labelled beginner, intermediate, or advanced.
Garment type – dresses, trousers, jackets, etc.
Fabric recommendations – patterns are designed with specific fabric types in mind.
Size range – check the body measurement chart, not just your ready-to-wear size.
Pattern type - PDF or paper
Commercial Patterns: The Big 4
The most widely recognised commercial pattern brands — often called the “Big 4” — are Vogue, New Look, McCall’s, Simplicity, and Butterick. Each season, they release a vast catalogue of patterns for garments, home décor, toys, and more.
Why they’re useful:
Ease of Use: Patterns are marked by difficulty, so you can choose one that matches your skill level.
Multi‑Sized Patterns: Modern patterns often include several sizes in one envelope, allowing you to blend sizes for a better fit.
Fit: Pattern sizing is different from ready‑to‑wear clothing. Always use your actual body measurements, not your shop size.
Designer Collaborations: Some patterns are created by well‑known designers or feature guest designers like Rachel Comey and Mimi G.
What’s Included: Tissue‑paper pattern sheets, instruction worksheets, and an envelope with sketches, fabric suggestions, fabric requirements, and notions lists.
Pro tip: Read the envelope carefully before buying fabric — it often includes fabric suitability notes that can make or break your project.
Independent Pattern Designers (Indie Patterns)
Indie patterns work much like commercial ones but are often sold as PDF downloads you print yourself.
Many cater to specific body types, making fitting easier:
Cashmerette – Larger bust sizes.
Sewaholic – Pear shapes.
Vikisews – Multiple height ranges.
Friday Pattern Company – Taller sewists (5'9").
A great resource for finding indie patterns is The Fold Line.
Trace Patterns
Found in magazines like Burda and Fibre Mood, trace patterns are economical but require more work.
How they work:
Multiple designs are printed on one sheet, distinguished by different colours or line styles.
Trace your chosen design onto separate paper, transferring all markings.
Seam allowances are usually included (often 1.5cm / 5⁄8"), but always check.
Instructions are often less detailed than commercial patterns, so keep the magazine for reference.
Original Patterns
Original patterns are drafted from your own measurements, often starting with a basic block (bodice, skirt, sleeve, trouser).
Advantages:
Perfect fit for your body.
Freedom to design your own styles and details.
Considerations:
Requires pattern‑making knowledge and sewing experience.
No printed instructions — you’ll need to know the correct construction order and techniques.
Final Thoughts
From ready‑to‑use commercial patterns to fully custom drafts, each type of pattern has its place in a sewist’s toolkit. The more you understand how they work — and how to choose the right one for your project — the more confident and creative you’ll become.
If you want to learn more click here for our Golden Rose Guide: Understanding a Paper Pattern or Golden Rose Guide: PDF Sewing Patterns.
If you have just started your dressmaking journey or you need some help to get started, why not book our Beginners Dressmaking Course where you will learn:
Taking your measurements and comparing to the pattern sizes.-
Choosing your size.
Making any pattern alterations needed.
Understanding your pattern pieces.
Choosing your fabric.
Marking your fabric.
Cutting your fabric.
Creating a variety of different seams and hems
Finishing seams
Elasticated Waistbands
Darts
Attaching a facing.
Happy sewing!!!
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